stupid move, literally
Gardening Reference » Gardening in 2006
by truestar on June 20, 2006 10:37 AM
Emergency -- transplanted a beautiful healthy 7' camelia to a sunny spot in my new yard (not living there yet and didn't realize just how suuny it was). 5 days later I think the tree is suffering from sunscalding. Will relocate it to a shady spot tomorrow -- any advice about how to do so without killing it altogether? Should I prune? Any special fertilizer I should use? Many thanks for helping me save this beautiful tree.
by The Plant Doc on June 20, 2006 02:40 PM
I would not fertilize it at all at this point, the salts in it could burn the fresh ends to the roots. Instead I would add some pot ash or bone meal work it into the soil. Make sure it stays well watered. Do not prune it back at all, at this point. That would just result in more shock weakening the plant further.
Hope this helps!
* * * *
Mike Maier
aka
The Plant Doc
Hope this helps!
* * * *
Mike Maier
aka
The Plant Doc
by Longy on June 21, 2006 12:17 PM
Also, use some seaweed extract before and after the transplanting. (This is not a fertilizer). It will go a long way toward reducing transplant shock. Use again a week after transplanting and don't fertilize at all until fresh new growth is evident.
* * * *
The secret is the soil.
* * * *
The secret is the soil.
by luis_pr on June 21, 2006 01:40 PM
I agree too. Do not prune and fertilize lightly using Liquid Seaweed (available at Lowe's, etc) thru August.
Site selection - Most camellias grow and produce better flowers in partial shade. Plants located in full sun often are less dormant during warm periods of the winter and may suffer damage if cold weather follows. Plants in a northern or western exposure of a building or fence or otherwise protected from intense morning sun will usually stand more cold weather than those in an eastern or southern exposure.
When planting into its new location,
* dig a hole at least two feet wider than the root ball
* leave soil in the center of the hole undisturbed to prevent settling
* place ball on column of soil. The top of ball should be slightly above soil level.
* fill the hole around the root ball with a mixture of topsoil and organic matter
* build a berm of soil around the plant three feet in diameter to prevent water from running off
* mulch (2-4") with pine straw or other organic matter around the plant
* water well after planting and soak once a week during dry weather. Very critical during the bud producing months (May-July, more or less)
If you live in the South, apply slow-release fertilizers such as cottonseed meal every from March, June and August starting next year; otherwise fertilize in Spring and early summer. To prevent damage to tender new growth, discontinue fertilizing around August/September. Remember to water, fertilize and then water again.
Plants will be showing flower buds by the first part of July. Your camellia will probably need about a year to get established so do not worry about lack of flowers or few flowers.
Good luck,
Site selection - Most camellias grow and produce better flowers in partial shade. Plants located in full sun often are less dormant during warm periods of the winter and may suffer damage if cold weather follows. Plants in a northern or western exposure of a building or fence or otherwise protected from intense morning sun will usually stand more cold weather than those in an eastern or southern exposure.
When planting into its new location,
* dig a hole at least two feet wider than the root ball
* leave soil in the center of the hole undisturbed to prevent settling
* place ball on column of soil. The top of ball should be slightly above soil level.
* fill the hole around the root ball with a mixture of topsoil and organic matter
* build a berm of soil around the plant three feet in diameter to prevent water from running off
* mulch (2-4") with pine straw or other organic matter around the plant
* water well after planting and soak once a week during dry weather. Very critical during the bud producing months (May-July, more or less)
If you live in the South, apply slow-release fertilizers such as cottonseed meal every from March, June and August starting next year; otherwise fertilize in Spring and early summer. To prevent damage to tender new growth, discontinue fertilizing around August/September. Remember to water, fertilize and then water again.
Plants will be showing flower buds by the first part of July. Your camellia will probably need about a year to get established so do not worry about lack of flowers or few flowers.
Good luck,
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