|
|
|
|
How to Force Bulbs to Bloom Indoors
Spring flowering bulbs can be potted up to give you an early bloom indoors,
however the flowers may also bring with them a bad case of Spring Fever.
|
The Bulb Forcing Process
The best containers for forcing bulbs are Azalea pots or bulb pans.
Azalea pots are 3/4 of the height of normal size pots.
However... you can use anything that you'd use for other houseplants as long as it drains well.
Since a bulb contains all the nutrients that it needs to bloom the first year, the planting mix doesn't necessarily have to provide any nutrients, but I have found that using a good potting soil makes it much easier to transplant the bulbs to the garden later. The addition of bone meal or bulb food will help the bulbs prepare for an afterlife in the garden.
Clean washed sand or gravel may also be used as alternatives to soil, but I don't recommend it.
|
 |
The pot should be filled one-half to three-quarters full with potting mix and then moistened.
Gently press the bulbs into the soil with the broad base down, and the nose pointed up.
They should be arranged as close together as possible without touching each other or the pot.
Face the flat side of Tulip bulbs toward the outside of the pot.
Barely cover the bulbs with additional potting mix and water gently until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
Add a little more soil if settling has exposed the bulbs.
Now the pot must be placed in a dark, cool area for 12 weeks or longer.
The temperature must remain below 48° F. but above freezing (35°-40° is recommended).
Total darkness is best, but if you are chilling the bulbs in the refrigerator don't worry about the light coming on when you open the door.
Growing your flowering bulbs
Once the roots of the chilling bulbs begin to grow out of the drainage holes in the pots, or the new shoots begin to show at about twelve weeks, give the bulbs a gradual transition to warmth.
|
Don't expose them to warm temperatures too soon or the blooms will emerge to fast and will fail before they ever open.
Start them out in the coolest spot of your home and gradually move them to warmer areas.
This will make the flowers last much longer.
Don't expose pale or white foliage to full sun until it has 'greened' up in a few days.
Rotate the pots one-quarter turn every few days to keep the foliage and stems upright.
Keep the soil moist, but never soggy.
Once the bulbs have finished flowering, remove the spent flowers and stems
but continue to water and provide light for the foliage.
The foliage will feed the bulb so it can grow again next year.
Do not remove the foliage until it has turned yellow. |
The bulbs can be planted outside when the weather permits just as with any perennial.
The bulbs can be separated by gently and slowly pulling them apart.
Unfortunately, forcing takes a lot out of a bulb so it may not bloom again for many seasons.
Bulbs should never be forced a second time, always start with NEW BULBS!
Bulbs that are Suitable for Forcing
Bulb Type |
Chilling Time |
Bloom Time
after Chilling |
Notes |
Amaryllis |
Needs No Chilling |
5-10 weeks |
      |
Autumn Crocus |
Needs No Chilling |
2-3 weeks |
      |
Bluebell |
10-12 weeks |
2-3 weeks |
        |
Calla Lily |
Needs No Chilling |
8-10 weeks |
         |
Crocus |
14-15 weeks |
2-3 weeks |
       |
Daffodil |
15-17 weeks |
2-3 weeks |
     |
Dutch Iris |
12-15 weeks |
2-3 weeks |
          |
Fairy Lily |
Needs No Chilling |
2-3 weeks |
    |
Freesia |
Needs No Chilling |
2-3 weeks |
        |
Grape Hyacinth |
13-16 weeks |
2-3 weeks |
     |
Hyacinth |
10-14 weeks |
2-3 weeks |
         |
Lily of the Valley |
12-15 weeks |
3-4 weeks |
        |
Paperwhite Narcissus
|
Needs No Chilling |
3-5 weeks |
    |
Tulip |
14-20 weeks |
4-5 weeks |
          |
Other articles you might like:
|
|
|