HERBS - AN OVERVIEW

An herb is technically defined as a "plant or part of a plant valued for its medicinal, savory,
aromatic or decorative qualities." Taken literally, this definition can encompass nearly all plants, therefore, it has become common practice to recognize a much smaller group of plants as herbs.

The history of herbs is as old as time itself, and this history is filled with a rich tradition
of lore, superstition, and legend.

The majority of plants classified as herbs contain some substance, in some part of the plant, (root, leaf, flower, bark, or fruit) that has been used, at some time, as a medicine. Nearly 1/4 of medicines currently in use are derived from plants or are near duplicates of these naturally occuring substances. Although herbs have been used medicinally throughout the ages, the use of herbs by the untrained for medical purposes can be very harmful or even fatal. Care must be taken not to recommend or use any herb in any way that is not known to be completely safe.

Herb gardening has experienced a renewed interest in recent years, and the interest continues to grow at a rapid pace. Most herbs are fairly easy to grow, and can be grown in a relatively small area. They are usually started from seed, or purchased as small plants, and set into the herb bed or garden after the last spring frost. Some are reported to repel insects or otherwise aid plant growth and are used in companion plantings. Many herb plants are annuals and must be restarted every year or overwintered indoors, but some are perennials and will survive several years.

Many common herbs originated in the Mediterrean region. The well-drained soil, bright sunlight,
and moderate temperatures of the region are quite conducive to these plants' growth. Some herbs
native to the Mediterranean are anise, bay, laurel,dill, lavender, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, and thyme.

Now, on to the real "dirt"...

Preparing the site
Choose a site that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Morning and early
afternoon sunlight is best. Choosing a site located close to the back or kitchen door will
provide easy access to the freshest herbs for cooking.
Avoid sites where the soil may stay too wet or too dry, this can be an indication of too much
clay or sand in the soil for herbs to do well. Soil may be modified with organic matter, or
raised beds may be constructed to correct water drainage issues.

"Herb Dirt Mix" for raised beds
yield: 100 square feet
18 cubic feet Pine Bark Mulch
three 5 gal buckets or three 50lb bags sand
20 lb composted cow manure
5 lb pelletized lime
Mix all ingredients well.
(ingredients may be reduced porportionately for smaller beds)

Prepare site by removing debris from soil. A soil test at this time is very helpful to
determine the makeup of the soil and fertilizer requirements. Organic matter worked into the
soil or applied around plants will help to retain moisture, limit weeds, and slowly improve the
soil. Prepare the site well, as perennial herbs may remain in one place for several years.
If a soil test shows the need for an application of lime, it will be most effective if applied a
few months before planting. Fertilizers should be applied immediately before working the soil.
Soil should be worked to a depth of 6 inches.

Water
Most herbs do well with 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. Shallow-rooted annual herbs (ie
dill) may reqire more water in very warm, dry weather; established perennial herbs may be quite
drought tolerant.

Problems
Herbs are generally unhindered by insects and diseases. Good sanitation will limit insect and
disease problems, as will natural predators. Handpicking or insecticidal soaps will control the occasional outbreak of insects. Most traditional pesticides are not labeled for culinary herb use.

Propagation
Herbs may be propagated by seed, division, or cuttings. Dill propagates easily from seed, and
can become invasive if not kept in check. French tarragon, lavender, true peppermint, French
thyme and English thyme are herbs which can only be propagated by cuttings or layering.
Lavender and rosemary grown from seed are often inferior to the parent plant, and considering
the slow and sporadic germination, are best grown from cuttings.

Seed may be sown indoors in a shallow flat or container with drainage holes, using a mix of 1/2
perlite, 1/2 potting medium. Some seeds germinate with light, and should not be covered with medium; instead, lightly press seeds into moist medium. Seeds may be covered with plastic or glass "dome" and placed 6 inches below florescent lights. Remove dome as soon as first
seedlings appear.Seeds that don't require light for germination may be planted in shallow holes or furrows, lightly covered with medium, covered with plastic or glass, and placed in warm area. (70-80*F) When seeds have germinated, remove cover and place under lights.
Fertilize seedlings once a week with half strength balanced fertilizer, water when surface of medium begins to dry.
When seedlings have developed 2 sets of leaves (one set cotyledon, or seed, leaves, and one set
true leaves) gently prick out, and transplant to small individual pots. Continue to fertilize
and water, and raise grow lights as plants grow.
Seedlings need 16 hours of light for best growth (a timer is helpful), and a drop in temperature
of about 10* at night will produce even better growth.

Many large-seeded annual herbs, such as chives, fennel, cilantro and dill may be direct seeded
into the garden from May through August or September, depending on your hardiness zone. Prepare seed bed of fine soil, sprinkle seed, rake slightly, and firm soil lightly. Water lightly, and keep soil evenly moist until seedlings appear. Thin seedlings to proper spacing when about 2 inches tall. It is common practice to make successive sowings at 2 week intervals during the growing season to ensure a continuous supply. To prevent unwanted volunteer seedlings, and maintain neat appearance of bed, harvest all mature plants before seed sets.

Large clumps of perennial herbs may be lifted and cut into smaller clumps for replanting. This
is done in spring before new growth starts, or in early fall before dormancy.

Many perennial herbs root easily from stem cuttings. The cuttings root faster in spring or
early summer, but cuttings may be taken in fall with good results, although it will take them
longer to root.
Sanitation is the key to successful rooting of herb cuttings. Rooting hormone is useful in
developing roots and minimizing stem rot, but is not always necessary. Here, trial and error is
the guide. Some herbs (mint, for example) will easily root in nothing more than a glass of
water.
To root in medium, take 4 to 6 inch cuttings of firm, healthy, new growth. Strip all leaves
from lower half of cutting. Dip stem in rooting hormone. (optional) Place cuttings in premade
hole in pot of perlite, place pot on tray of water. Be sure water level is lower than the end
of the cutting. Place in bright light (not direct sunlight). In two weeks, begin "testing" for roots by GENTLY pulling on cutting. When resistance is felt, roots have begun forming. Gently remove plants from perlite, and pot up to individual pots of growing mix.

Some herbs, whether by self sowing or underground runners, can become quite invasive. Dill,
fennel, and chives are notorious self seeders; mint, yarrow, and tansy spread quickly by
runners. To help control this problem, harvest self seeders before they set seed, and contain
"spreaders" in lengths of vertically buried PVC pipe, chimney tiles, or other bottomless pots.
Another solution is to grow herbs in containers on a sunny deck or patio.

Harvesting
When not pruned regularly, herbs can become quite floppy and unruly. Regular pruning actually
produces a healthier plant, as well as one that is compact and bushy.Annual herbs can be harvested for their leaves any time up to flowering. Pinching the stem back to a leaf node promotes lateral branching. Pull these plants by the roots before seed sets. Herbs that are grown for their seed (dill, fennel, coriander) must be left and allowed to set seed. Perennial herbs can be clipped from late spring until late summer or flowering, whichever comes first. Do not prune later in the season, as this may encourage tender new growth that is vunerable to frost. The quality, flavor, and fragrance of herbs tend to decline after flowering.

Preserving
Herbs can be used fresh, or can be preserved to retain quality for later use. The easiest way
to preserve herbs is by freezing. Tie herbs in small bundles and dip in boiling water for a few
seconds (many believe this "blanching" is not necessary), rinse quickly in cold water, pat dry,
and chop coarsely. Divide herbs into desired portions, seal in freezer containers or freezer
bags, and place in freezer. Although these herbs will not look or feel like fresh when thawed,
and are unsuitable for garnish, they will taste and smell as fresh as the day they were picked.
Herbs prepared this way may also be frozen in measured portions in a block or cube of ice, and
added to soups, stews, and other dishes with a liquid base.

Herbs may also be pickled in vinegar to make a base for dressings or marinades that utilize
vinegar. Blanche large sprigs of desired herb in boiling water for a few seconds to sterilize,
and steep in white wine vinegar for several weeks. These herb vinegars will keep indefinitely when stored at room temperature out of direct sunlight.

The object of drying herbs is to retain as much color, aroma and flavor as possible. Traditionally, entire plants or large stems are tied and hung, upside down, in a fairly dark,
slightly cool room, with good air circulation. Do not dry in direct sunlight, as this will fade
colors. Allow plenty of air space between bunches to discourage the growth of mold. Many herbs dry well, although there are a few that will lose their fragrance or flavor.

I personally do not recommend microwave drying of herbs, as the drying time must be carefully
controlled, and there is a great tendency to overdry and burn the herbs.

Oven drying, on the other hand, is a good method if you are in a hurry. Place herbs in a single
layer on a rack, and cover with cheesecloth. Set oven at lowest temperature, leave door open
slightly, and stir herbs frequently until crisp. This only takes a few minutes.

A food dehydrator may also be used, follow user instructions.

Dried herbs should be left in large pieces, and crumbled just before use to preserve flavor.

The flavor of dried herbs is more concentrated than fresh, so only use 1/2 to 1/3 the amount of
dried herbs, compared to what you would use fresh. Not only do fresh herbs have wonderful
flavor, they also make nice garnishes.

Uses
Did you know that parsley was originally placed on a plate not for decoration, but to be chewed
as a "breath freshener" after spicy meals?

Dried flowers and leaves are also useful craft items. Their color, fragrance, and texture are a
great addition to wreaths, arrangements, and potpourris.

Herbs may be steeped in hot water, and added to the bath water for an invigorating, soothing, or
relaxing bath.

A search at your local library, bookstore, or on the internet will yield many other ideas for
the use of herbs.

For more herbal info, visit the following sites:

web page

web page

web page

web page

I hope this article has been interesting as well as informative. If you have specific questions, you may contact me through this board, or email me at:
Nikkal_1@yahoo.com

Nikkal

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The Earth does not belong to us - We belong to the Earth
~Oriah Mountain Dreamer~

Catlover, your DD has a good physician! I'd recommend Lavandula angustifolia, aka English, or True, Lavender. Not only does it have the sweetest fragrance, but this type has the most varied uses.
Lavandula dentata, aka French Lavender, also has a strong smell, but I don't think it's a very pleasant one!

Not only is L. angustifolia used for it's fragrance, it can be used in furniture polish, air fresheners, potpourri, scented candles, as a sedative, an antiseptic, a deodorant, for healing and soothing skin, the oil rubbed on the temples to ease headaches, to repel insects, and stop the itching from insect bites; in teas, cakes, vinegars, and as a substitute for rosemary in recipes. (whew, that's a list! )

L. angustifolia does well in fairly poor soil, as long as it's well drained and slightly alkaline. Don't overwater, as lavender can't stand "wet feet". It's actually quite drought tolerant. Proper spacing of plants is important to discourage fungal disease. It tolerates a wide range of temps, from hot summers to cold winters, and it is a perennial.

Nikkal

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The Earth does not belong to us - We belong to the Earth
~Oriah Mountain Dreamer~

Hi Barb
Personally, I would say that either the tincture or decoction would be most effective, due to the fact that they are taken internally, as opposed to a topical treatment, and would be digested more readily than a pill or capsule.
This is not to say a lotion or oil would be less effective in the long run, but may take longer to have the same effect.
There are quite a few medical restrictions and drug interaction precautions prohibiting the oral ingestion of Prickly Ash (I can list them, if you like), these limitations make the lotion or oil a viable alternative.

Nikkal

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The Earth does not belong to us - We belong to the Earth
~Oriah Mountain Dreamer~

Nikkal,
I spot read it,
Been up to my eyeballs in STUFF TO DO!!!!
But what I did see is EXCELLENT!!!
Thanks!!
You do good work.

(I do so much reading when the wind and snow is blowing and not much else to do here.
Looking forward to really sinking in to the computer then.)
Weezie

* * * *
Weezie

Don't forget to be kind to strangers. For some who have
done this have entertained angels without realizing it.
- Bible - Hebrews 13:2





http://photobucket.com/albums/y250/weezie13/

Great artical...although I only spot read it because I should really be making dinner!!! Just a quick question (I'm really hoping that the answer does not lie in your artical since I didn't read it all!!!

My husband uses herbs to cook (I'm just learning to) and we recently ordered veggie and herb seeds. I'd like to keep the herbs living during the winter. We get a pretty good amount of snow and the temperature rarely goes over 32-40 degrees in the winter. Is it possible to plant the herbs in large planters and them bring them in for the winter?? Are there herbs that I shouldn't plant together?? These are the herbs that I got: Greek Oregano, Winter Thyme, Sage, Catnip (for our kitties...it will have it's own pot), Basil, and fernleaf dill.

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nikkal I notice a lot of recipes on the TV uses a lot of herbs for cooking and would like to start growing some indoors in front of the kitchen window in flower pots! Could you give me some that are use a lot in cooking? Thank you ladystressout! Also going to try english lavender been wanting to try but with so many out there your article was very helpfu.

WOW!!!! What a super informative post, Nikkal.

Thank you soooooooo much.

Sue Z
LOVES to cook with fresh herbs
(AND wine!! LOL)


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"WHEN IN DOUBT ... DON'T"

Great article
Everybody should try to make a herb garden..and rachel be warned: if you first start planting herbs you will never stop...I speak from expirience

* * * *
gardening is living

LOL, I totally don't feel bad now that I'm having so much difficulty getting French Tarragon to grow from seed! English Thyme is barely hanging on at the moment as well. Ugh, will probably try one more time and if it's a total bust, I'll end up getting them as bedding plants.

Sigh,
Julianna

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I am growing some herbs for the first time this year, glad I found this! I was just about to ask about drying herbs - has anyone tried the oven method?

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I'm a black thumb but basil has always forgiven me. And I have luck with mint as long as I don't let it get dry, sometimes the summer gets away from me and I lose the mint. Chives are also another good choice for someone like me although after it gets really big it will die on me. So I try to keep it short. How about garlic indoors is that possible?

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SN, can you tell me how to clip my fennel? Have never had it before...and it is doing really well but I am not sure if I should just clip the fuzzy tops off or the whole stalk part. And, can I dry it? I have used fennel seeds in cooking..but never seen any dried fennel. Thanks for any info you can give.

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Happiness, like a dessert so sweet.
May life give you more than you can ever eat...
*** ***

Good Morning~

Fennel

You can harvest fennel much the way you would dill, meaning you can snip and dry the "fuzzy" tops (or use them fresh) and also later just let it go completely to seed, then harvest the seeds. The stalk may also be cut and eaten, some good uses are in salad and mixed with veggies - sauteed or stir-fried.

The leaves are supposed to have the most flavor when the seeds are first starting to bloom, but I think you can cut leaves anytime really.

As I am sure you know, it has a licorice flavor. You can use it in anything you would like that flavor in. I should think fish, pasta, breads would be good foods to start with. Do you bake your own bread? That would be a good place to use some seeds.

Fennel is actually one of the things I recommend to nursing mamas if they want to increase their milk supply. Don't bother with the commercial teas out there, they don't contain enough fennel to make a real difference.

I even tried it with a colicky baby, it can help with digestion and kind of has a soothing effect.

And although I have not reached the point to use it in this manner, some people have used it during menopause.

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Happiness is when what you think, what you say, and what you do are in harmony... ~Mahatma Gandhi

Rocking through the night
All is silent...Southern Cross

TK!

Garlic~

Garlic does not have to be as difficult to grow as some make it out to be, so don't pay any attention to other stuff you may find out there on the web...

Maybe that is why I have had success with herbs, I just experiment with everything and try not to pay attention to so-called experts, LOL.

I used to have two black thumbs, too, or so I thought. But then I started approaching gardening in a different way. Kind of like the way I taught myself to make bread, years ago. When I stopped reading all the books by the experts and went by my instinct and really, just using the science and logic of it, that is when my bread began to be culinary masterpieces, LOL. It only makes sense, if you knead and knead and knead, you are going to KILL the yeast! So I don't knead the way all the experts say, I limit the kneading time...

OK, back to the garlic.

You can do this - EASY~

You want to use a large pot, with really rich soil, add compost/organic materials/mulch to it, especially if your dirt has a lot of sand. The soil should be fairly loose.

Keep in mind that whatever garlic you plant that is what you will get, so if you like the bigger bulbs of garlic, use that type. The bigger ones will grow better.

You split the cloves and plant about 1 inch below the suface, root side down/pointy side up. If you plant more than one in a pot, space them 2 inches or so apart. Once they begin growing, you can add a little organic fertilizer. When the plant reaches about 8 inches, you will cut off the stalks. If you like, you can let it grow and go to flower, but then the bulb (in the ground) will not grow bigger.

Harvesting - When the leaves turn brown and there are only a few green ones left, start checking the bulb in the dirt. When it looks a good size, you can gently bring it out. Dust it off, but do not wash it or anything. Hang by the dry stalks for a few weeks before using.

Also, I wanted to mention, that once you are sure the garlic is growing, you can, if you want and if you have a really large pot, grow other herbs around the garlic. Make a theme garden if you want. Grow basil and oregano for an italian theme.

HTH



P.S. BTW, and you may have seen this if you watch HGTV, this is a great use for garlic. I don't like chemicals for pesticides...
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gardening/article/0,1785,HGTV_3546_1375890,00.html

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Happiness is when what you think, what you say, and what you do are in harmony... ~Mahatma Gandhi

Rocking through the night
All is silent...Southern Cross

I just use the organic bulbs that you would get at the whole foods market. Trader Joe's should have some, too.

You can use the grocery garlic as long as it hasn't been sprayed with something to retard growth.

But you can also buy specialty bulbs, really cool!

http://thegarlicstore.com/index.cgi/grow.html

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/catalog/results.html?start=1&ct=hg&search_keywords_field=keywords&misc_source=&Checkout_customer_info=1&search_keywords=garlic&x=16&y=6

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Happiness is when what you think, what you say, and what you do are in harmony... ~Mahatma Gandhi

Rocking through the night
All is silent...Southern Cross

I bought garlic bulbs at walmart. One bulbs will make 5 or 6 plants. The garlic tops look a lot like onions except the greens are flat and not round.

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One OS to rule them, one OS to find them:
One OS to bring them all and in the darkness bind them
In the Land of Redmond where the shadows lie.

yep

i have a question about the growing garlic in a pot.... when exactly does the clove split? and is a freezing spell absolutely necesary? why?

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Wizzards pics

@Wizard...freezing/cold is very important to garlic. Like all root crops such as beets, turnips, etc. the cold weather is what triggers the plant to store its energy in the root and thus it grows larger. While freezing may not be critical, consistent cold is or else you will wind up with small colves and a lot of greens.

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Put some "Spice" in your life!